The executive chef behind one of the Sunshine Coast’s busiest surf clubs has opened his own cafe and restaurant in the Maroochydore CBD, bringing Eastern European flavours to the region.
Andrii Denysov, known locally for his work at Alex Surf Club, has launched his own venue, Compass Menu, which is not to be confused with the similarly named Compass cafes located elsewhere in Maroochydore and Caloundra.
Originally from Ukraine, Mr Denysov moved to Australia at 24 and studied commercial cookery after first settling in Melbourne. After travelling widely, he chose to base himself on the Sunshine Coast nearly a decade ago.
He said the region’s lifestyle and balance between city growth and coastal living made it an obvious place to put down roots.
“I travelled around Australia and Asia and Europe, and I think there’s no better place,” he said.
“It has the weather, the lifestyle, the people – it feels like a town but the city is next door.”
Hospitality has been part of his life since childhood, growing up working in his family’s restaurant run by his mother, Larysa Denysova. She now works alongside him in the new business, preparing many of the dishes while he manages operations and front-of-house.
“My mum opened the restaurant when I was young, so I was working there from about 12 years old,” he said.
“Now we’re working together again every day.”
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The restaurant focuses broadly on Eastern European cuisine rather than one national identity, with influences from Ukrainian, Georgian and Hungarian traditions. Mr Denysov said the concept evolved after recognising a gap in the local dining scene.
“When we started we realised there was no Eastern European food on the Coast,” he said.
“There’s a lot of Italian and French, which I love, but we wanted to show something different.”
The menu centres on hearty, comforting meals designed for sharing, with flavours built around herbs, garlic, slow-cooked meats and traditional spice blends.
Among the offerings are Georgian favourites such as badrijani – eggplant rolls filled with walnut paste and Georgian spices, topped with pomegranate and coriander – and megrelian kharcho, featuring pork ribs simmered in onion, garlic, tomato, khmeli suneli and walnut sauce, served with grilled creamy polenta and finished with herbs.
Another dish from Mr Denysov’s heritage is syrniki, Eastern European ricotta cakes popular across Slavic countries, which can be served as breakfast, dessert or a main meal with sour cream, honey or berries. Originally made with a tangy cottage cheese, the dish has quickly become one of the restaurant’s best sellers.
“That’s actually the most popular dish on the menu,” Mr Denysov said.
“I only put it on because it’s my favourite to eat. I didn’t think people would order it because they don’t know it, but people love it.”
He said many customers arrived unsure what to expect from Eastern European cuisine but left pleasantly surprised by the flavours and style.
“It’s hearty, wholesome food – comfort food,” he said.
“Most things are baked or cooked on the char. We don’t do deep-fried food.”
Compass Menu initially opened for breakfast and lunch only, but strong customer interest prompted the addition of dinner service, with the potential for themed evenings in the future.
For Mr Denysov, opening his first Australian business in the rapidly developing Maroochydore CBD felt like the right opportunity at the right time.
“This area is growing, and people choose to live here for a reason,” he said.
“If there was a place to open, I wanted it to be here.”
While opening his own venue marks a major milestone, Mr Denysov has maintained ties with his surf club role in a reduced capacity.
“Since I opened this one, I still help there a little bit, more in a support role,” he said.
Compass Menu is located on Sunshine Coast Parade and South Sea Islander Way, Maroochydore, and is open for breakfast and lunch every day and dinner Wednesday to Saturday evenings.
